With Erin in London and I in Northern Ireland, the stage was set for a catch up in Dublin, meeting by the Liffey for two nights on the Emerald Isle. We’ve both been to Dublin before on separate trips, but as we soon discovered Dublin always has new surprises in-store. It also has plenty of surprises when it comes to cost. It is by no means a cheap city…
We kicked off the trip at The Temple Bar on Friday night in err, Temple Bar. I know I know, it’s an absolute tourist trap but look–we were tourists. Overpriced drinks in hand we began catching up on the last 4 months of life while listening to the live music (non-traditional), squeezing between the crowds of other overpaying patrons.
Taking it easy on Saturday morning, we headed to Barnardo Square for a Sandemans walking tour. Dublin is full of historical and contemporary nuggets of social activism and political statements.
After the tour, we double backed to a spot our guide mentioned, Chester Beatty. Apparently this museum holds the largest number of artifacts from the Middle East and Asia in Europe, and there’s some amazing pieces in there. After Beatty’s, Dublin Castle was on the agenda.
Now mainly used for state visits and Presidential Augurations, it was only fitting we acted in an appropriate fashion…
Trying to be as regal as possible on the grand staircase
We sourced ourselves a Tesco meal deal and watched the Liffey flow by before walking over to the Guinness Storehouse at St James’ Gate. Again, while both of us had visited before, changes to the exhibit kept it novel. We even scored a table up top at the Gravity Bar! Of course, we exited through the gift shop with Guinness paraphernalia in hand.
Up the top at St James’s Gate Brewery
That evening, we were pretty set on finding an actual, authentic Irish pub with trad music that didn’t count too many tourists among its patrons. Lita, our tour guide from earlier had recommended the Cobblestone Pub for good live music and a pint.
First, dinner.
If ever you need great tapas in Dublin, head to the Port House. Enough said.
Walking into the Cobblestone—wait it’s too busy hang on let’s try the next door—
—walking into the Cobblestone, you’re met with rough floorboards, the timeless mirrored bar. Locals chatting away and revellers trying to find the clearest spot to get a bartender. Seating for chats on the right, gaeilge way-finding everywhere. To the left, the musicians area. No stage, reserved seating. Crowding around, listeners SHHHHHHHH the entire pub as the music gets going.
The band at The Cobblestone
We grabbed our drinks and started filtering through the crowd towards the musicians. As luck would have it, a few people were leaving as we approached and before you knew it we were right at the front, band in front of us.
Irish pubs have such a grassroots, egalitarian feel - no stage, the musicians come and go as they please, resulting in a band sound that evolves throughout the night. Once one song is finished, tha band chats and have drinks until one of them starts the next tune, the rest slowly joining in. While we watched, the bassoonist and a violinist left, soon replaced by a flautist, an accordion and a guitarist.
This was an experience I’ll treasure forever.
Up early the next day, we’d booked in for the Trinity Trails tour and Book of Kells experience.
Both of us decided we wanted to attend Trinity so stay tuned on how that goes for us.
As with all great trips, ours came to and en at the bus stop.