Last September, my partner and I headed across the ditch to Aotearoa/NZ for two weeks of exploration and adventure. While we had initial grand plans to do a couple of overnight hikes alongside a ‘vanlife’ roadtrip, the logistics to run both trips at the same time were too difficult.
Welcome to Queenstown
Having arrived in Queenstown, we checked into our Airbnb–which was right at the top of a very steep hill mind (welcome to NZ lol). I’d organised the Uber to take us into the town centre due to the fact the Airbnb was meant to be walking distance. It was, hill and all included. Lesson learnt.
We’d arranged to have a few days in Queenstown proper to explore what is probably one of my favourite towns. It’s like a ski resort on steroids–everyone there is there to have fun, forget about the corporate lifestyle and enjoy everything mother nature has to offer.
While in Queenstown, we hit a few of the OGs; the Shotover Jet, Ferg Burger as well as some of the lesser undertaken–we walked up towards Ben Lomond from the town centre, up the Tiwi trail and past the luge. More uphill.
Towards the summit of Ben Lomond
The van
Finding a van was really very easy. If the common joke about sheep in NZ applies, so should one about vans. They’re everywhere. We found ours on a site called Camplify–which is a bit like Airbnb for vans and cars. People who may own a van and don’t use it full time can rent it out at a daily cost, while the renter pays for fuel and tolls.
For a whopping NZD$100 a day, we had scored a memorable Toyota Hiace from 1990. Makes it older than yours truly.
We’re talking no airbags, no power steering, no A/C and a top speed of 40km/h at the mere sight of a slope.
I loved it.
The owners had fitted it out with a decent setup; bed, cabinetry (including a sink!) and a battery for the small fridge and electronics for when you’re parked up.
Hayley in the van
Me and the van in Kinloch
The van set up for our first night in Kinloch
The trip
Day 1
We headed off from Queenstown towards Kinloch, a small town on the shoreline of Lake Whakatipu (same as Queenstown). Another 20mins on from the township was a DOC campground that looked to have great views and bare bones facilities, making it the perfect shakedown spot for the van.
Arriving, it was quiet and still. There was the campground, right on the shore. A small guest house that looked like it had been there for centuries, and then a couple of houses partially obscured by trees. There were a few other groups already set up; a couple of climbers, another couple of ‘vanlifers’ and a large caravan whose owners we didn’t see much.
We settled in for the evening, making dinner and escaping the sandflies that descend as soon as the sun sets.
Day 2
Staying in Kinloch for another night, we headed for the trailhead of the Routebourn track. One of NZ’s great walks, we were only doing a day’s out and back from it but I would love to go back to complete all 4/5 days of it.
The walk was stunning. Crossing about 5 suspension bridges, there’s nothing I can compare it to in Australia. You walk along the Routeburn River, with its glacial blue water streaming below the towering peaks above.
At the trailhead of the Routeburn Track
Post-walk, we returned to Kinloch campground and settled in for another peaceful evening by the lake.
Day 3
Leaving Kinloch at a reasonable time, heading for Te Anau.
Arriving in the pouring rain, there was no sign of the eponymous Lake Te Anau, so we bunkered down and did our laundry instead. How exciting is travel!
That night we did at least one of the things we travelled there for: the glow worms. Super cool.
Unfortunately while waiting for the glow worm ferry, I noticed that the Milford Sound road was closed, which didn’t bode well for our tour the next day. A phone call while boarding said boat confirmed the tour had been cancelled. We’d booked a slightly cheaper tour that was going to pick us up in Te Anau, but given we weren’t coming back for the rest of the trip we rebooked a Queenstown-departing tour at the end of our trip.
Day 4
On the road again, towards Wānaka. Heading over the Crown Range, we encountered a snow flurry as we crossed ~600m in elevation. With no chains, we took the gamble as the road was still clear and no signs of ice. Plus, the road was still busy with standard traffic. Two aussies panicked, the kiwis took it in their stride.
Do you know what snow is at lower elevations? Rain.
Wet van in Wet Wānaka
Wet Wānaka.
Morale was low and the weather wet–we had come to Wānaka to enjoy the the beautify lakeside and climb Roy’s Peak. Both were covered in cloud.
We decided to do our laundry and bunker down for the evening, only to then discover the dryers at the camp didn’t exactly dry your washing. After two runs at it, we were left with a sopping pile of clothes.
Wet Wānaka.
Day 5
Driving up the West Coast to Franz Josef Glacier there was a marked difference in the environment and scenery.
Tasman Sea on the left, ferny temperate rainforest on the right made for a beautiful drive in the full sun, stark shadows on the road. With some very steep gorge roads, it certainly kept you on your toes in an old van.
Arriving in FJ, we headed straight for the glacier. I have previously flown up to the glacier on a walking tour, but this time we were going for the Robert’s Point walking track. This would turn out to be one of the sketchiest bush walks I’ve ever done. Crossing waterfalls and walking up sheer creek flows meant you were switched on the whole time. Not only that, but there were 3-4 suspension bridges to cross, some of which had weight limits (one only held 1x adult!). On top of this, there was a sign at the very start featuring newspaper clippings of recent deaths on the walk.
An hour or so later of slogging uphill, we arrived at the view point. We’d walked along the glacial valley, terminating at a ‘headland’ with a view up the rest of the carved landscape to the foot of the glacier. Unfortunately, cloud cover meant there was only a peek of glacier visible. After waiting to see if the cloud would rise, the clock was ticking on and we wanted to be back in town and at the campsite before dark for dinner.
Tonight’s campsite was an amazing, tropical feel holiday park nestled amongst the ferns.
Day 6
Day 6 was a driving day. But man, was it a great driving day. FJ was great to stop at, and while we could have taken it far slower as a trip we weren’t sure about staying in Hokitika–we decided to book a night in Christchurch to see the city (turns out, not our most genius idea) which meant driving up to the junction and over Arthur’s Pass (the amazing drive).
I can’t explain how amazing Arthur’s Pass is to drive. Just know this: you could see for miles and miles, which really ebbed away at your sense of scale.
Day 7
Christchurch is pretty meh. Maybe it’s only when in direct comparison to the awesome vistas of the regions.
Had to visit Coffee Supreme on their home turf
Anyway, we headed off in the morning and were soon back in the aforementioned vistas arriving at Lake Tekapo, which is inside a Dark Sky Reserve. I wanted to do a stargazing tour but unfortunately was too late in booking so we enjoyed the dark sky as it was, spotting satellite after planet after star. So good. So huge.
Earlier in the day we had done a day walk up to Mt John Observatory, choosing to do the clockwise route which gave us a beautiful view of Lake Tekapo up into the mountains on our descent.
Day 8
Onto to possibly my favourite spot of the entire trip; Aoraki/Mount Cook. The tallest peak in Aotearoa at 3,724 metres we arrived at the DOC campsite in the early afternoon with the light hitting the surrounding peaks, the valley in a cool shade.
Bags packed, we started walking along the fairly busy trail towards the glacial lake at the terminus. Along the way, we crossed 4-5 suspension bridges–each one an interesting negotiation with walkers head both directions as we all navigated the weight limits declared. The glacial water flowing rapidly below was both beautiful and sobering in this regard.
After returning from the walk (including seeing (and hearing) the immediate aftermath of an avalanche!!) we headed back to the van to cook up dinner and relax into the evening. That evening we met a couple of British backpackers who were doing a very similar trip to us; they had flown in from Melbourne on the same day, hired a Camplify van, toured a similar route and were flying out of Queenstown on the same day…small world.
Day 9
Heading back to Wānaka via Lindis Pass, we were greeted by weather far more fitting of its reputation as a gateway to the outdoors and adventure: blue sky and sun!
I couldn’t resist a quick swim in Lake Wānaka!
We took the evening very chill.
Day 10
From Wānaka we drove to Arrowtown, a small gold mining town outside of Queenstown. We stayed in what was possibly the most disappointing caravan park, but that’s okay because the town was gorgeous.
Cosy warm comfy great pub
Where’s the trail?
Arrowtown has some amazing shops with local goods, an amazing coffee roastery and the perfect pub to shelter from the rain outside.
While based in Arrowtown we did a local walk up to the summit of German Hill. It’s an amazing walk straight from town, offering views of the nearby valley. On the downhill, we were met with far more water crossings than there would be normally; recent rain meant the water was finding any and all ways DOWN.
Day 11
We departed Arrowtown the previous evening, retunring to Queenstown. We still had the Van for a couple of days so stayed in a caravan park that was very green, very quirky. It was good.
This morning we were up early to head off to Milford Sound (remember the postponement from earlier in the trip?) God it’s beautiful. I’ll leave some photos below but we all know they’re moot.
This mountain is taller than Mount Hotham. I kept using Hotham as my reference point
Day 12
Bikes!!
After a massive all day adventure on Milford Sound, today we hired Mountain Bikes to ride fromm the aforementioned Arrowtown to Queenstown. About 30km, it’s paths most of the way and quiet roads the rest.
While the company offers eMTB, we went traditional and while it was definitely the right choice, it didn’t stop the hills still being on the route.
Then came the moment that felt like it would never come (in the best way)–handing back the van. She did us well, hurtling us up the mountains of Aotearoa at 40km/h and throwing us down them with no power steering. I wouldn’t have it any other way.
