Oslo, Oslo, Oslo. You have my attention.
Flying in at sunset, Hayley and I arrived Norway with very open minds and open calendars for the upcoming 5 days. With no expectations of what Oslo might be like, the stage was set to be wowed. And wowed we were.
We landed late (sunset at 10:50pm anyone?) so the next morning was action stations. Kicking off with a walking tour, we began to get our bearings of the city. Initial impressions were of a clean, quiet, progressive metropolis that is proud of its history and very focused on the future. That, and pride in pastries which is a green flag.
Hotdog
We bought Oslo passes, which give you free public transport across the city (including the ferries) and free access to most of the museums and attractions.
Mind blowing fact alert: the entire public transport system in Oslo is electric, including the ferries. Not only that, but it takes the ferries EIGHT MINUTES to recharge WHAT.
Off onto the fjord, and to the island of Hovedøya to see the ruins of an old catholic monastery. There are five islands in fjord, each with beaches, cafes and some houses depending.
Back on the mainland, we visited a building that has been voted as Oslo’s ugliest, and most beautiful: the City Hall. While the outside is not traditionally stunning, the inside is WOW. Hand painted murals of the history and values of the city, state rooms finished with all the trimmings and space that makes you feel small certainly put Melbourne town hall to shame.
Out the front of the City Hall
With tinned mackerel for dinner in hand, we headed home.
As mentioned, Oslo is not littered with rubbish, but with artisinal coffee shops and bakeries. Our first stop on day 2 was Coffee Kuro, which is attached to a store focused on Norwegian fashion and accessories. A stone’s throw away, all the vintage shopping you could dream of. Money was spent.
The Munch Museum
You’ve likely heard of Edvard Munch’s Scream, and as one of Norway’s most famous painters there is quite a large museum showcasing his work. When he passed away, he entrusted 25,000 paintings to the City of Oslo! The Scream is only shown for 30 minutes every hour to preserve it, and we were fortunate to arrive just in time with not wait.
Inside the Munch Museum
Up the top, you’re graced with a panoramic view of Oslo and the fjord. This bit is free for everyone, even if you don’t have a ticket for the exhibitions.
View of the Opera House from the top of the Munch Museum
From the Munch Museum we walked over the Opera House, as you do.
On the Opera House roof
Dinner that night was at The Salmon, a restaurant dedicated to you’ll-never-guess-what.
Hayley ordered the Shrimp Toast from The Salmon
Iskreem for dessert.
Sometimes when you’re travelling it’s fun to imagine what the place would have been like a millennia ago. You know, like how cool it might have been to sauna on Oslo fjord with a random sailor passing through the port. Turns out that can still happen. For Day 3, Hayley had booked a floating sauna on Oslo Fjord and we happened to be sharing ours with an English sailor. I could imagine that happening in the 1300s.
Floating on the sauna, you rock gently with the wake of other boats as you sweat it out, and can jump right into the fjord when you want to refresh yourself. Not only that, but you can take the stairs to the roof of the sauna hut and jump in from above.
Our floating sauna
Avoiding the jellyfish
Curiously, there were quite a few jellyfish bobbing around so you had to time your jump to avoid a sting (I was told it was similar to a nettle sting: annoying but not deadly). The water was quite mild, and concerningly it was 20°C…not the bracing temperature you imagine Oslo fjord to be.
Dinner was at 5pm, so we managed to squeeze in a quick trip to the Fram Museum. The Fram is the ship used for multiple Norwegian Polar expeditions, including the successful South Pole trip by Amundsen. It’s a very cool museum - they built it around the Fram. Walking in, you’re confronted by this huge bow. Walking around the ship reading about all the expeditions you end up at the same level of the deck, at which poiunt you can actually go on board. Heading below deck, much of the ship has been restored to how it would have been for the Polar expeditions. Very cool.
On the Fram
On the ferry back from the Fram Museum
Dinner that night was pretty special. A bit out from the city centre, Nektar wine bar sits in an older style two story building filled with locals and tourists alike.
Nektar winebar
Some highlight dishes (although all were great):
Skatewing
Anchovy Toast
As if we weren’t impressed enough by Oslo’s lifestyle and social facilities, on our last day before flying out we visited the public library. Next door to the Opera House, the library is a striking building full of books (duh), public spaces for 3D printing, workshops, exhibitions, studying and games of chess. After Hayley beat me at chess, we left.
Oslo Library
Inside Oslo Library
Hayley beating me in chess
Thanks Oslo.